Buttonhole-sewing machine.



' Patented May 8, I900. W. N. PARKE; BUT'TDNHOLE SEWING RMGNBNE.

(No Model.)

(Applicatian filed Do. 1Q, 1897.)

' 7 Sheets-$heet I.

No. 648391. Patented May 8, E996.

W. N. PARKES'. BUTTOHHOLE SEWING MACHINE.

(Application filed Dec. 14, 1897.)

7 Sheqts8heet 2.

(No Model.)

,mom

No. 648,99l. Ptented May a w. H. PARKES.

BUTTUNHULE SEWING HEM-NE.

A u aeiw filed. Dac. 14, 1897.)

7 sham-sun 3.

("'0 Model.)

mvemon Ne. 648,991. I Patented May 8 W. M. PARKES. BUTTGNHOLE $EWING MMZHBNE.

(Application filed Dec. 14, 1897.) v v (No Model.) 7 Sheets-Sheat 4,

WiTNESSES:

Patented May 8, I900.

W. N. PARKES. BUTTQNHOLE SEWENG PflAfiHENE.

(Application filed Dec. 1%, 1897.) (No Model.) 7 Sheets-Sheet 5.

WITNESSE Patented may 3, W66.

w. N. ax s. BUTTONHULE SEWING FflAGHHE. I

A licamn'med Dec. 14, 1897.

(No Modei.)

7 Sheets-Sham 7.

H mm.-

: WITNESSES:

I to provide for In a huttonhole formed stitches aredistributed, as previously pointed out", first in a curved line of step-by'rstep lateral stitches,

; extreme end of the buttonhole it gives the end a square appearance.

nation with the VILLIAM N. PARKES,

eur'roasots se OF NEW YORK, N. Y.

WING MACHINE.

SPEGIFICATION forming part of Letters Patent No. 648,991, dated May 8, 1906.

' Application filed December 14, 1897. Serial No. 661 1893- (No model.)

To all whom, it may concern:

Be it known that I, WILLIAM Y. PARKES, a citizen of the United States of America, and a resident of New York, (Brooklyn,) in the county of Kings and State of New'York, have invented a certain new andusefui improvement in Buttonhole Sewing Machines, of which the following is a specification.

My invention has special reference to that class of sewing-machines known as zigzag. or .overseaniing machines, but is not conlined exclusively to this class. It also has reference to any class of sewing-machines having a stitch-forming mechanism adapted to stitch the edges of buttonholes. I

It has for its main object to provide a simple-mechanism for presenting or feeding the Work to the needle in this class of machines so as to produce buttonholes and tacks.

' It also has for its objects, first, to feed the work uniformly step by step during the stitching of the sides of the buttonhole until near the end-and then, in combination with this movement, to'fced the work laterally step by step, thereby forming curved lines of stitches across the end of the huttonhole; secondly, a dwell inthe movement longitudinally of the huttonholeiwhen at or near the ends of the same and to continue the step-by-step lateral movement, thereby forming one or more straight lines of stitches across the end of the buttonhole in combicurved lines or separately; thirdly, a convenient attachment specially adapted to be affixed.to zigzag-sewing 'machines for thus converting the same into buttonhole-sewing machines, and, fourthly, to put the mechanism .in such form, thatit'can be readily applied as an attachment to and removed from zigzag-sewing machines withon interfering with the zigzag-orover-seaminproperties of such machines. Y

by mechanism the then in a straight'line, and then in another curved lineintersecting the first curved line. I find that this makes a very strong aud finely-finished end, and as the straight line of lateral stitching is across the Qt course the ends several views of the drawings:

a usual switch-cam lever. With my mechanism any can be made to have the round appearance by continuing the longitudinal movement of the work-carrier during the-lateral move clamp being removed and connections with the same being broken away. Fig. 3 is a vertical section on the line 3 3, Fig. 1,'with parts re moved from I*ig.- 1 replaced, thus showing a complete section of. the mechanism. Fig. 4 is a cross section on the line4 4, Fig. 2. Fig. 5 is a section on the line, 5 5, Fig. 1. illustrating a detail part. Fig. Sis a diagrammatic view of a buttonhole. Fig. 7-is a side elevation of the work-carrier. Fig. 8 is a top view of the same. Fig. 9 is. avertical section-on the line 9 9, Fig. 8. Fig. 10 is a diagranimatte view ofan eyeletend huttonhole. Fig.

l1 is a face view of a cam forming part of the mechanism'for the formation of the button-'- hole shown in Fig. 10. 1 Fig.-12 illustrates a modification of a part of theaotuating mechanism. Fig. 13 illustrates theconnection be tween the driving-cam and the looking from right to left',.oth e'r parts being omitted. Fig. 14 illustrates a top view of the same. Fig. 15 is a front elevationof a mach'ine'with my mechanismattached thereto. Fig. 16 is a diagrammatic view of a "squareend huttonhole. i

Similar letters and numerals of reference pawl -1ever designate cor-responding parts throughout the Referring to the drawings, "the' letter Adesignates the bed-plat'e of-the machine; a, the usual swinging gate in which the needle-bar a is mounted; 01. the usual which is vibrated in a usual the machine, and (1.4 $113,131 connection tween th ligateia;nd

plement-alstitch-forming mechani canbe used in connection with tlm ahc eiBr any .segmeut lev'er, manner through on" the ,upper shaft of.

rig

of the plates.

stitch-forming mechanism which hasa rceiu roeatinp, needle-bar which is vibrated laterally. ()u the top of said bed-plate are soenred two guides l and 2, running; longitudinallyot said plate and receiving two (mposite sides of a slide Ii and guiding the same trans- Yersely to the length of the buttonhole to be stitched, said slide extending, outwardly, so as to eross the path of the needle, and having It suitable opening 1 therein to allow for the vibratory notion of the needle and the reeiproeations of said slide 3. To the slide. 3 are seen red twoguidesl 1-, extending, transversely to the same, and between these guides is mounted a slide 15, formin the lower member of the work-carrier. lhis slide i5 is mounted to reciprocate on the slide 3 across he path of the needle and at substantially right angles to the lateral vibrations of the same, a large enough longitudinal opening being made in said slide 15 to allow for the formation ofbuttonholes within the said opening. The upper surface of said slide 15 is roughened or toothed suitably for engage ment with the work, and said surface is beveled or inclined downwardly toward the center of the slide. in the presentexample, Figs. l, 7, S, and f), I have shown the worleoarrier provided with an upper spring; member 33 S4, aetin in eonjunetion with the lower member or slide ld to carry the work along, said up per member holding the work down upon said slide or lower membert Said upper member iii; of the worleearrier is formed ot a fiat spring having a lower part 234, which is attached to the rea end of the lower member 15, while the body overhangs thesaid lower member. The free end of the member 33 is bifurcated or formed with an opening, as at 35, to allow the action of the needle in forming the buttonhole. lo said bifurcated end are att aehed twostnds 3U, extending'in thedireetion of the length of the memhen and upon whieh two s eeves :37 are mounted to turn freely. Said sleeves have lugs 42 "f rmed on their under side, to whieh presser-p ates 1 3 are hinged by means of the pins 53S, passing through the up .rardly-extemling bearings a", formed on the plates 43, and the lugs 4'3 in a suitable inauner to allowthe hearings to in rn freely on the pins, as shown in liig. U. The pressenplates l3aresubstantiallyrectangularin shape,with inwardly-exteuding upturned ends it and have ledges -18 formed along: their outer lower edges. The upper outeredges of thesiidelo are beveled, as at in, to adapt it For engagement with the ledges on the presser-plates 43. A spriin, ilfhattaehed to the member- .33, normally presses downwardly on the extending ends of the pins I38, and thereby turns the sleeves (when the elamp is open) until the lips to on tin: sleeves come into contact with the stops ll, projecting from the studs Zl i. \Vhen in this posit ion, the plates i i are in substantially a horizontal position laterally, the upturned emisifiservingg to pr vent overlapping Any suitable means ean be used for lceepire the said plates in a horizontal position longitudinally when the elamp is open-sueh, for example, as the curved springs 17, which are attached to the presserplates and impinge against the under side of the lugs t2. Asthe clamp is closed the ledges 48 on the plates i l engage with the work and draw it over the beveled edges if) of the lower slide 15, after which further movement of the clamp in closing turns the plates 43 on the hinge or pivot; 30 and stretches the work across the opening in the said lower slide 15. The clam p can be opened by any suitable means as, for example, those described in my prior application, Serial No. (110,810, filed Novemher 2, 1896.

'lhe work-carrier is reciproeated longitudinally-that is, transversely to the lateral \ibrations oi the needle-to stitch the sides of thebuttonholes by the following, meehaniemc: On a stud 4, attached to the slide 3, is mounted to turn a mutilated gear 10, the teeth of \vhieh are adapted to engage alternatelywith the racks l7 and 18, formed on the inner-sides of a slide 19, mounted in guides 20011 the slide 3 and ext-mu ling transversely to the same. Mounted above the gearlti on the stud 4 is a ratehet-wheel 5, having an npwardlyextemling hub, on which a cam 8 is mounted. The said gear 16, ratehet-wheol 5, and mm 8 are all eonneeted by any suitable means, and are thus adapted tobe driven simultaneously. The ratchet-wheel 5 is rotated by a leedpawl it, carried by a feeddever 7, whieh lever may be vibrated from any suitable moving part of the maehino for instance, from the main shattot the maehineby an eccentric or cam L, a connecting-rod e, a level-(l, and a link e,

as indicated in Fig. 2 and also illustrated in Figs. 13 and i t. The inner end of the slide ii is placed in eonneetiou with the slidolfi by a lever ill, having an atljustable fulcrum 22. This i'uleruin is adjustablysecured to the slide 3;, as shown in Fig. 5, in the following manner: in the lever 21 is formed a longitudinal slot '33, into whieh is titted a shoe Qt, adapted to slide in said slot. side of ihealide 15 is formed a slot/E35, eountersunk in a, nsuai manner. In said slot is planed a nut 12d, which iseng'aged by the lower end of a sorter-stilt 27, passing through the shoe J1 and through a shoe 3%, iitled intothe slot 25 from above. The stud 27 is formed with a shoulder 25*, whieh keeps the shoot!- in place, andrwith ahnb 27",whieh bearsupon the shoe 38. "When the serew-stinlis drawn up, the nut and shoe 28 are drawn toward 'eaeh other to clamp the stud to the slide 3,

while the shoe 2t remainsloos. and turns with the lever 21.

The sides of the slide it] are provided with notches 230 and Ill, adapted to be engaged by spring-deients2.12, whieh counteract any tendeney ol' the slide it) to shift while the teeth on the mutilated gear or sector it? are passing from one rack to the other.

The means for reeiprm-ating the slide l int:

()n the under cease: e

orally for forming the tacks at the end. of the bnttonholes and moving the work so as to stitch from one side of the hole to the other by the combined movements ofthe work-carrier are constructed as follows: On the upwardly-extending hub of the ratchet-wheel is secured a cam 8, which is engaged on opposits sides by roller-studs 9, carried by a cover 10, adjiistably secured to the bed-plate A by screws 11 and 12 passing through slots in said cover and entering the bed-plate.

When the ratchet-wheel 5 is turned, the slide 3 is reciprocated by the action of the cam 8 on the roller-studs 9, since the cover is rigidly held by the screws 11 and 12.

. n the oxampleillustrated in Fig. 12 l have shown a modification of a part of the driving mechanism in which a cam is used in place of the racks and mutilated gear 16 for imparting reciprocating motion to a slide 19,

which is placed in connection with the workcarrier through the lever 2l and connections, before described. -The said slide 19 reciprocates in the same hearing as the rack 1.), heretofore described: The cam 50 is provided with a slot5l, through which the stud 4 passes, and with a second parallel slot 52, through which is passed a set-screw 53, which 'isscrewed into the ratchet-wheel 5, located. directly above the same, and so fastens the cam to the ratchet-Wheel to participate in its rotation. The cam engages with the slide 19 or, referably, with an inserted adjusting,

bloc 54, secured to one side of the same, and in its rotation imparts reciprocating motion tosaidslidei The slots 51 and 52and the set-screw 5-3 are for the purpose of adjusting the can: to varythe length of the stroke of v the slide 19, and consequently that of the wor -earrier and the bnttonholc. By shifting the fulcrum of lever 2l this adjustment can be further varied so as to still further decrease or increascgthe stroke of the work-.

carrier.

To illustrate the og'eration of the machine in automatically stit hing buttonholes, letit be assumed that the buttonholo is started at the point marked 1* in Fig. 6. The corresponding position of the earn 8, Fig. 2, is that with the point 1* in contact with the rollerstud 9 to the right of the cam and in contact slide 19 and the feed action ceases.

the continued rotation of cams to points? a, cam 60, Fig. 11,. turns from'1* to 2* the workwith the other roller-stud at point 5*. As the cam turns in the direction of arrow 100, Fig. 2, the slide 3 remains stationary, and one side ofthe buttonhole is stitched in'view of the work-carrier being moved toward the operator by gear 16 engaging with rack 18, Fig, 1, of slide 19. During the travel of the cam from 2* to 3* the slide 3 is moved .0 the right, whiie the gear 16 is still moving the workca'rrier toward the operator, thii's forming a curved line of stitching 2* 3*at the end of the bnttonhole. When the cam is at 3*, gear 16 has just become disengaged from rack 18 of On stitching, is formed, since the slide 3 is now being moved to the right. .When the cam travels from 5* to 6*,the second side 5* 6* of the buttonhole is stitched, since the slide 31'smains stationary again, and the work-carrier lSlIlOVGl from the operator by the action of gear 16 on rack 17. The second end of the buttonhole is stitched in. like manner by the portions 6* to 1" of the cam in connection with the action of the gear 16 on racks l7 and 18. lhe bnttonhole thus produced is therefore provided with reinforced ends having square extremes and curved interior ends.

Ifthe longitudinal movement of the workcarrier is arrested when the work is under the needle at the point marked 2* in Fig. G and remains at rest until the point 5* is reached and the lateral movement of the worlccarrier effected at the same time by the movenient of the cam 8, a straight-end buttonhole did he produced, substantially in outline like the oneshown in Fig. 16. In the present exan'r ple of my invention the needle continues to vibrate, the same as during the stitching of a straight Li. across the ends of the hoiesand the rcsultw'cdid be asquare-end buttonhole, as above indicated, the number of times the end is crossed being determined by the shape of the cam 8. The longitudinal movement of the Work-carrier may be arrested by discontinuing the engagenientof gear 16 with the racks 17 and 18 before or at the time the lateral movement of the work -carricr com ih'oncest'or i nsiance, by shortening the racks 01' by decreasing the number of teeth in the "car.

In Fig. 10 I have shown an eyelet-end buttonhole and in Fig. 11 a cam for eifecting the necessary laterai movcmen ts of the Work-car rier. The second end of the bnttonhole is shown to be si nilar to that previously de scribed in com :ction with Fig. 6, and for this reason but one Wedge-shaped stud placed to the right "in Figs. 2 and 3 is used, and the cam '60 is drawn against the same by a spring bl, attached tothc slide 3 and to the bed-plate A, the said spring passing through an opening formed in the end of the cover 10. Spring These stitches in the example jnsteited would of course all be in lateral line of stitching 3*. 4* is formed square carrier is moved longitudinally by the move ment of slide lit to stitch one side of the buttonhole. During the rotation of the cam from to 3"" and from 25* to 4* the curved portion 2* 33* i is formodat; the end of the huttonhole, as the slide 3 is now reciprocated lay the cam no move the work-carrier laterally while it is being moved longitudinally by the inorement'of slide 19. Whilo the cam tut-i ing t to at the end of the buttonhole is {)lfiilllCt-tl, as the work-carrier is moved only laterally in View of'gear 16 being out of engagement; with the slide 19. .The parts of the cam. numbered 6* cause the second curved line 7*, intersecting the line 2* 3*, to be formed, as the lougit udiual more meat of the work-carrier is now taking: placc [luring the rotation of the cam from 7* to 8* onlylongitiulinal motion of the work-carrier takes place and the second side 7* to 8* of the huttonhole is at ilehed. The second end of the buttonhole'is then st itehcd by the portions 8* If it? oi. the earn, as before described in c0u ni-ction with Fig. 13. if the tack or bar at the second end of the buttonhole is to be made longer, the portions 51* 0* 10* 1* are shaped as indicated by broken lines in Fig. ll.

It desired, a presserfeet can be used for holding the work down on the lower member ot the worleearrier in place of the upper memherhcreinoeiore described. In thisease the lower member by its engagement wit h the work feeds the same along, while the presserfoot, being stationary and smooth 'at its eontactsurface, permits the ord i nary machines.

it is evident that the mechanism for actuaiin the worleearricr, as described, instead oi. being attached directly to the bed-plate A of the machine'could be attached in like manner to an aul'iiliary plate or base, which latter would then be attached to the bed of. the machine. This construction puts the mechanism in a conyeuieut term for its at taeh ment to and removal from an ordiuaryxigiiag or o't'ersoamiug machine.

What i claim as new is-- i. llhe combination with a sewingmachine having a rertieallyvreeiprocating and laterallyvibrating needle and eomplemoutal work to slide. as in etitclrforming mechanism, of a toothed rack,

a dish, a segment of tcetht'ormedon the dish adapted to reciprocate the toothed rack and means for actuating the said disk, a \\'0t'l-' .carriermounted to ret'fi 'iroeate at substantially right angles to the lateralvibrations of the needle, a lover having one end connected with said worlecarrier, a toothed rack mounted to slide placed in operative oonue '-t.ion

from 4* to 5* the straight line of stitch-- with the other end of the said lever, and means for reciprocating the said raclr, substautially as described. 7c

1). The combination with a hut-tonholc-sewiug machiuelnwinga vertically-reeiprocating and laterally-ribratiug needle and complemental stitch-forming mechanism, of a slide adapted toreciproeate, a toothed rack mounted t-dreciprocate in a fixed guidcway on the said slide, mutilated gear mounted on a fixed heating on the said slide adapted to enthe said rack, a work'carrii'amounted to reciprocate on the said slide, an operative 8o connection between thcsaid worleearrier and the said rack, whereby when the rack is eiprocated the work-carrier is reeiprocated, means adapted to actuate the mutilated gear, and means adapted to reciprocate theslide when stitching at or near the ends of the buttonholes only, substantially as'described.

4. In a sewingmaehine havinga vertieallyreciprocating and laterallyyilu'ating needle, the combination of a work-carrier mouuted to reciprocate at substantially right. angles to the lateral vibrations of the needle, a lcyor having one end connected witli said' worlv carrier, at toothed raclclmounted to slide and placed in operative connection with the other (indoi said lover, a gear mounted to actuate said rack, and means for actual ing'said gear, substautialir an described.

g'i. In a sew-ing-machinehavinga vertically-'- reciprocating: and laterally-ribratiug; needle, the combination of a slide mounted toreciproeate, a work-carrier mounted on said slide to reciprocate at; substaut ially" right angles to the ltt'illl'OiillltitlH oi said slide, an internallyl'OUlltOtl rack mounted to reciprocate on said slide, a lover having one end eonnccted with the \VUlkd'lll'l'lil' and the other end with the internallytoothcd l'ilt'h', a mutilated gear mounted to allernatelyengage with the in* toritally-toothed rack, a ieed ivheol mounted no to actuate said gear, a feed-pawl mounted to engage with said teed-wheel, an eccentric or ram actuated by the main shaft of the ma-' chine, and an operative connection between said eccentric or cam and. aforesaid pawl for actual ing the pawl when tho eceentricf or cam is actuated, substantially as described.

t. inaseniug'maelrinehavingaverticallyreciprocating and laterally-\[ibratiug needle, the combination of a slide mounted to reeip- 12c rocate, a work-caurier-monuted on aaid slide '7. Inasewing-machine having a verticallyreeiprocating and laterally-vibrating needle, the combination of a slide mounted to reciprocate, a work-carrier mounted on said slide to reciprocate at substantially right anglesto the reciprocations of ,said slide, a ratchet feed-wheel mounted on said slide, mechanism for rotating the same, a cam carried by said ratchet-whcel and engaging with a lixed stud or studs, a undiluted gearrotatingwith said ratchet feed-wheel, a second slide mounted to reciprocate on the first slide and provided with oppositelyplaced toothed racks adapted to be alternately engaged by said mutilated gear, a detent or detents adapted to engage with the said second slide, and a lever connecting said second slide and the :rv'orloearrier, substantially as described. 8. Ina sewing-machine havinga verti 'allyreciprocating and laterallywibrating needle, the combination of aslide mounted to reciprocate, a work-carrier mounted to reciprocate on said slide, mechanism for actuatingthe work-carrier and a cam also mounted on said slide, a lined cover projecting over said mechanism, a roller stud or studs pro ieetin; downu'ardly from said cover and cue-aged by the cam, and means for actuating aforesaid mechanism, substantially as described.

9. The combination in a workcarrier, of

two sleeves 37mounted to turn on the upper member of said work-carrier, two presscrplates 43 provided with inwardly and upwardly turned ends and hinged to said sleeves and therefore capable of turning longitudinally and laterally, springs 47 placed between said resser-plates and the hinges, spring 39 acting upon said sleeves to normally hold the resser-plates in substantially-horizonta] positions, ledges 48 formed on the lower outer i edg s of said presser-plates, and a lower member 1-5 provided with an inclined face and adapted to be engaged by the ledges on the prcsser-plates for turning the same down rardly when the upper member is depressed, substantially as described.

i 10. The combination in a bnttonholc-sewlug machine of a work-carrier, meehan ism for moving said work-cz'u'rier laterally to stitch or lack the ends of the buttonholes and after stitching one side of the buttonhole to move the work-clam p laterally in a position to stitch the other side thereof, embodying a cam having the smooth portions 1* and 5* 0*, and the inclined portions 3* 4" o*, and mechl anism for reciprocating said workcarrier longitudinally to stitch the sides of the bu t-tonholes," substantially as described.

11. The combination in a buttonhole-seni- 1 ing machine ofa Work-carrier, mechanism for moving said work-carrier laterally to stitch or tack the ends of thczluittouholes and after 5 stitching one side of the bultonholc to more I the wink-clamp laterally in a position to stitch the ol her side thereof, embodying a cam havinclined portions 2* 3* l" 5* on one side and l the inclined portions 6* 7* 8* 1* on the oppoisite side, and mechanism for reciprocating i i l l l said work-carrier longitudiuallyt-o stitohthe' sides of the buttonholes, substantially as described. 1

In testimony that I claim the foregoing as l myinvent-ion l have signed my name, in presence of two witnesses, this Hth day of October, 18%.

JV. N. PARKER Witnesses: i

EUGENIE A. PERSIDES,

l l A. FABnn m' EAUR; Jr.

in; the smooth portions 1* 2* and 5* 6*; the 

